Several years ago, Chef Gary Danko brought a small kitchen crew and an elaborate multi-course meal to a friend’s home in San Francisco’s North Bay. The evening was sponsored by Lexus as a marketing activity for regular patrons, and the delivered Chef Danko as the key attraction for our 10 business colleagues and friends. Despite his several James Beard awards and his restaurant’s Relais & Chateau and Michelin designations, among others, Gary Danko was unassuming and approachable in this suburban Marin County kitchen, and seemed to enjoy himself in the well-appointed kitchen that still was no match for his restaurant’s ample equipment. With Danko as our private chef for the evening, it was definitely “pinch-me” time, an unforgettable experience for our guests and us that we still talk about today. And I still remember his delightful, easy smile, as if he was enjoying himself too.
Recently my Womantraveler friend and I experienced the same personality and ambiance at Gary Danko’s restaurant near Fisherman’s Wharf in downtown San Francisco. Call it marketing, but his website gets it exactly right – an evening with Gary Danko is both intimate and theatrical. The Chef wasn’t in the house on this occasion, but you’d never know it. A phalanx of servers, sommeliers and other staff created a seamless experience. Though I was expecting a lot, given my familiarity with Gary Danko’s reputation, I can comfortably call the event a “meal of a lifetime.”
We were impressed when we walked in to the warm dark space that was animated by conversation, busy with activity, yet refined and sophisticated in temperament. We had booked 60 days ahead, the limit on the restaurant’s website, and arrived with much anticipation. I always take a deep breath when I travel solo or with another companion – it’s convenient for dining establishments, who are constantly juggling to manage and seat their guests, to shuttle a party of two (and especially two women) off to a two-top along the side. Not here! The women at the front desk took a look at us, exchanged smiles, and walked us to the best seat in the house. We had no “status” nor had we dropped any names. There were other tables available, but we were escorted to a banquette seat along the wall, at a four-top that was quickly cleared for two, at the center of the main room. Not that anyone else was watching but we felt that we were on center stage in a pleasant sort of way. I make a point of this because in my experience women are often treated a bit second-class in restaurants, especially in the more elite venues, where the insider clientele always seems to get preference.
Gary Danko’s menu, French-inspired California cuisine, offers three options – 3 courses for $122 (which we chose), 4 courses for $150 and 5 courses for $170 – a person. And there are add-ons, like the Select Caviar Service to start, ranging from $99 for White Sturgeon to $160 for Imperial Golden Osetra, and of course, the wine and wine pairings. Our bottle of DuMol 2017 Wester Reach, a Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County (California) was $165 from a wine list the length of a city-size telephone directory. (Absolutely delicious quality and choice provenance, and at one of the lower price points on the menu.)
The menu descriptions were amply described. Here were my choices – Appetizer: Asparagus Salad with Red Onion Caper Vinaigrette, Red Pepper Goat Cheese Mousse, Prosciutto, and Quail Eggs. Yes, that’s the salad! For my main course I opted for Quail Stuffed with Quinoa, Leeks, Marsala Mushrooms, Spring Vegetables, and Green Garlic. All that in two nicely apportioned quail, larger than I’ve ever enjoyed. Then came a selection of farmhouse and artisanal cheeses, and the dessert we shared, ta-dum – Baked Chocolate Souffle with Two Sauces (so unctuous as to be poured from a pitcher). Am I in heaven yet? All this while the wine poured often, yet lightly, in half-inch pours unlike the “big gulps” that often result from untrained servers. The service could not have been more professional without pomp, just as the first time, when Gary Danko was cooking in my colleague’s home.
After our desserts and espresso, we were treated with a finishing touch – a selection of a dozen hand-made chocolates, which they boxed for us as a “thank you.” Now that is real style.
It takes a very large staff to run a restaurant like this night after night. We learned that Gary Danko’s employs about 50 people in the front of the house and the kitchen – and though down from 75 prior to the pandemic – certainly not the short-staff scenarios many restaurants and customers have suffered from in the past couple of years. And clearly they are loyal, adding to the exceptional delivery, many working here over 15 years. A profession, not a job, and the results show.
I felt a bit tacky when I asked for a copy of the menu – since I hadn’t written down all the ingredients and Gary Danko’s menus change daily, based on what’s fresh locally. Guess what? There was an autographed copy of the menu waiting for me at checkout. Even though he had no clue, I kinda felt as though he knew who I was, from our brief encounter years back. That’s the signature that such a gracious reception delivers, I am certain, every night at Gary Danko San Francisco.
