The girls got together on in Woods Hole, MA for a rare girlfriends reunion — three of us among a group once three times this size who’ve been friends for nearly 30 years and are now dispersed around the world. Collectively we’ve lost two of our own to deaths way too young, supported others among us through serious illness and other personal tragedy, and currently (knock wood) are riding the crest of life’s second-half wave.
We rendezvoused in this southwestern Cape Cod village in a Down East grey shingled cottage, thanks also to a generously hospitable husband who put up with us, and collected a new girlfriend along the way who was one of the town’s “summer people.” We took long walks in the cool moist air of early August mornings, lolled on a spit of a beach watching the ferries to-ing and fro-in between Woods Hole and Martha’s Vineyard, drove around in “Mustang Sally’s” red convertible, shopped habitually and hung out on back porches in the evenings for long wine-filled dinners and reminiscing in great detail about shared and separate lives.
In just two days of humid summer, we girlfriends used our East Coast moorings to pack in years of catching up. Woods Hole and surroundings provided the right balance of solitude and activity to support that.
Because it is the year-round home of the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution and Marine Biological Laboratory. Woods Hole is more than a “summer people” town on Cape Cod. Research and applied science bring in scientists from around the world and a marine-focused intellectual life along with educational programs for the public and a small aquarium that kids of all ages enjoy. This year thee institution is celebrating its 75th anniversary.
Here are the best finds in the area, according to one of the girlfriends who’s been summering and occasionally wintering in Woods Hole for two decades:
Restaurants
Captain Kidd (our choice for girlfriends dinner) — seafood specialties on the waterfront. 77 Water St., 508.548.9206.
Fishmonger — another breakfast must. Fresh and natural foods, memorable sunsets. 56 Water St., 508.540.5376.
Landfall — classic seafood house on the waterfront. Luscombe Ave., 508.548.1758.
Lee Side — best lobster rolls. 2 Luscombe Ave., 508.548.9754.
Pie in the Sky Bakery — breakfast must. Coffees, pastries, breakfast concoctions, soups, sandwiches, salads, and Internet access.10 Water St., 508.540.5475.
Shopping
Falmouth is the main town in this area of southwestern Cape Cod with New England historic charm. Worth an afternoon of shopping along Main Street at Rosie Cheeks (stylish uptown clothing and casual resort wear), Bojangles (unique clothing, accessories, homestyle items, and gifts), Bean and Cod (gourmet foods), Ben and Bills (homemade chocolates and ice cream), art galleries, and home decor.
Places to Stay
The main scene is rental properties and bed and breakfasts. Here are two recommended favorites in the wider area:
Chatham. A Boston Globe writer praised the “simple virtues” and frequent return guests of the Queen Anne Inn, 70 Queen Anne Road, 508.945.0394, 800.545.4667.
Martha’s Vineyard. I’ve spent a lovely few days in this comfortably elegant getaway run by expert innkeepers — Crocker House Inn, 12 Crocker Ave., Vineyard Haven, 508.693.1151, 800.772.0206.
