We hike for great food in Crete, and it’s not hard to find. Today’s destination is a shady beachside taverna on the Mediterrean, a casual traditional eating place with tables of all sizes for large families and smaller groups. Accordingly, we plan our lunch at the midpoint of our four-mile roundtrip along the island’s northwest shore.
On this beautiful day, the outing is gorgeous! Over 300 varieties of wildflowers and other plant species are indigenous only to Crete. While the island is in full flower in March and April, we’ve spotted many seasonal species along our route. On the ocean’s banks are gray-green wild sage, pungent wild thyme, tiny petunias and hardy shrubs that tolerate salt water and excrete salt through their leaves.
Lunch in Crete is a Leisurely Affair
With their appreciation of both food and family, Cretans gather around 2 pm for leisurely lunches. The portions are so sizable that it’s common to share plates – literally and figuratively – I actually saw a mother walk around the table and reach over their shoulders to eat off her children’s plates, which was a shocker to witness for the first time! Moreover, there is always wine and the small carafe of local wine; fortunately that didn’t seem to limit our hiking pace or progress on the way back. Among the three of us, we sampled lightly fried calamari (the tastiest and definitely the freshest I’ve ever had), a Greek salad (always a staple, with huge chunks of feta cheese loaded with flavor), zucchini croquettes (said to be the best anywhere in the area, according to my friends) and a fried hard cheese dusted with flour (saganaki). For me, that was a first – and I immediately became a fan, only to learn that baked feta is also a delicacy. And there is nothing like the fresh feta of the Greek islands!
Above all, this is the way people in Crete eat everyday, and it’s relatively inexpensive by U.S. standards, especially for the quality that comes with care and appreciation for the entire dining experience. The next night, wouldn’t you know, we hiked a very steep mile to Staras Comfort Food, a delightful cliffside taverna in Gerani Village for dinner (despite stopping to enjoy wine and appetizers with friends halfway up our climb). Clearly this combination of hiking, drinking and dining is the template for friends and families in Crete. While I was dubious that I could both hike and dine, the accomplishment stimulated my appetite. And by the time we reached our dinner table at Staras, the evening had only just begun. I have never had such delicious grilled lamb chops and such large meaty pieces. When the Raki came with dessert (see previous article), I wisely declined. After all, the trek back, a steep downhill in the moonlight, was yet to start.
A Recipe for You
Readers, here’s a bonus for enjoying this article – my friends’ popular Baked Feta recipe (it will be one of the first dishes I try once back home): Slice a onion, fry slowly until almost tender, then add a sweet pepper in slices for 2-3 minutes. Add 1 or 2 tomatoes in slices, fry slowly until the tomatoes almost fall apart while stirring gently. Salt and pepper to taste when the tomatoes go in. Put the mix in a fireproof bowl or pan. Top with a big piece of feta 2-3 cm thick (about 3/4 inch), cover with oregano on the feta. Place in oven 200 C (about 400 F), and bake for 20 minutes. Serve right from the oven in the bowl/pan.
