Neel Stallings is a retired HR administrator in North Carolina and, as a seasoned Womantraveler at the age of 76, thrives on adventure travel. Last year after post-pandemic travel resumed, she headed to Antarctica and, from a small ship, braved even smaller Zodiac boats daily for trips out into the icy seas and a quick swim in 34-degree water. We talked after she completed her latest trip – to Tajikistan, which is located in Central Asia east of Armenia, north of Afghanistan and west of China. Her group climbed its several mountain ranges and traveled to three cities along the ancient Silk Road between China and Europe, where architecture dates largely from the 9th to the 17th centuries. The trip, “Fann Mountains Trek and Silk Road Cities,” was organized by World Expeditions.
When did you get the adventure travel bug?
“When I was in the 7th grade, we wrote term papers on what we wanted to be when we grew up, and I wanted to be a flight attendant. I was too tall so I didn’t bother applying. My first hardcore adventure trip in 1976… rafting the Omo River in Ethiopia for a month. My tentmate and I constantly got a D-minus from the boatmen for our camping skills. Our tent was always sagging. Once we pitched it in the wrong place and the flash floods came, so we were a little waterlogged to say the least. We also had to sign a form that said that if the hippos or crocodiles caught us, we’d have to pay to have our bodies shipped to the states. It truly was an adventure.
“I always opt for adventure travel. Hiking and mountaineering. I love being in the wilderness, sleeping in a tent – far, far away.”
You’ve talked openly about surviving breast cancer twice – is that a factor?
“I’m 76. Cancer has had an influence on my traveling as much as I can and taking adventurous trips…I want to pack in these adventures before my body says you can’t do this anymore. It changes your outlook on feeling immortal – and makes you feel real mortal…Will my knees give out? Will my hips give out?
“On this last trip, I could not find my rhythm the first day and I thought this was the message that it’s time to stop adventure travel, at least mountain hiking. It can be very depressing, but I remembered what a guide from a previous mountain climbing adventure said: stay positive, breathe deeply and don’t look up. I found my rhythm the second day, and I’ve signed up for a similar trip in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco next year – we’ll climb to 4,167 meters, or 13,671 feet above sea level.”
Talk about the notion of pushing yourself.
“I got into the major habit of pushing myself on my first high-altitude mountain hike in Northern India in the foothills of the Himalayans in 1991. We went to 17,000 feet and I loved it. The next year, my friend and I climbed a 14,000-foot mountain in Colorado, which we both loved. Then he suggested climbing Volcanoes in Mexico, but I resisted. I didn’t want to climb on ice. He kept upping the ante, and when he offered to pay for my plane ticket, I succumbed. We had a wonderful time and successfully climbed all three volcanoes, the highest of which was 18,800 feet….
“Next on the list was Mount Aconcagua in the Andes Mountains, Argentina, up to 23,000 feet…We trained for a whole year, mentally and physically. We’d go to Mt. Mitchell, NC (6884 feet). We’d climb at night. We poured our hearts and souls into it. I got a sabbatical from work and we went to South America for 6 weeks. The mountain was a 3-week climb…it was a grind. We did OK, but when we got up to high camp at 19,000 feet, it was getting real funky up in that altitude. There were 5 of us, and one turned around because the altitude really got to him…Then we did a practice day, up to 20,000 feet, and my partner said, ‘that’s it, that’s my personal best.’ I was determined but the altitude was really getting to me. So the guide and another young guy and I took off to climb the summit; I was doing great. I climbed to 20,000 feet, we were on a 45-degree glacier, and I felt a sense of fainting, but I kept pushing. I made it to 21,500 feet and that was it…the dizziness…I knew I needed to get over to this outcropping of rocks that was not covered with ice and rest and breathe deeply…We turned around and went back.
“I was sooo disappointed, but when you’re up that high, your body is just trying to breathe as hard as it can. Only two of my fingers had not split open being so cold and dry, it was hard to breathe, and you don’t think well (my partner tried to put his gloves on his feet). The wind was howling, we were completely exposed…When I got off the mountain, I was so miserable, just wanted to get into my sleeping bag. When we climbed back down to base camp at 14,000 feet, it felt like sea level. So we felt that we gave it our best. I was disappointed that I didn’t make the summit but am very proud I got that high and got back down safely., that was me really pushing…I decided then that my high altitude climbs were done.”
How do you train?
“I work out on a recumbent exercycle, Stairmaster, the ellipticals, all of those things. One of the people on our trip said she’d work out on the Stairmaster for 1.5 hours several times a week. I did a hard hard workout yesterday for about two hours and I really felt it, so I’m taking the day off. I used to do a lot of running, including marathons when I lived in Marin County in California. Bicycling is a favorite of mine also. My sister and I are blessed with very strong bodies, which we used to take for granted. Not now!”
Where next?
“I’d like to go hiking in Croatia, Georgia and Armenia. I’ve never been to Brazil. I’ve been to Africa several times, Argentina, Australia, Chile, Ecuador, China, countries in Eastern and Western Europe (including Norway, where my sister and I started a school in 1977), India, Nepal, Mongolia, New Zealand, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, Bhutan and a few other smaller countries. I loved central Asia and would love to explore that more. When I touched down in Antarctica last year, it was the last continent. I’ve been to every state in the U.S. and to Canada. I don’t have enough time to do repeat trips if I can help it.”
What’s your advice to others who aspire to travel and to test adventure travel?
“Do it! Do not hesitate! I have a map of the world on my wall and on it, a Post-It that says, ‘Postpone nothing!’ There’s another note on the map that says, ‘all those who achieve great things are great dreamers.’
“Life is short, the world is interesting, beautiful, fascinating and varied. Go see it and have fun!”
Sidebar: Notes from Tajikistan, August 2023
“The 5-day trek in the mountains was glorious. We hiked 5-8 hours a day in altitude ranging from 9,000 feet to 12,600 feet. The first day in high altitude kicked my tail, and I just couldn’t find my rhythm. It was blisteringly hot and UP, UP, UP. At almost 76 years of age, I was thinking this may well be my last adventure trek. However, I got into my rhythm the next day and did just fine for the next four days. Thank goodness, because my goal is to be doing these trips at age 80!
“The mountains were spectacular, and I absolutely loved sleeping in a tent again. Donkeys carried our supplies, so we had to pack sparingly. I wore the same thing 4 of the 5 days. Our campsites were near lakes, so we went swimming each day. The water was COLD! The guides, the food, the scenery, the trekking, the group (we got along beautifully) and the beauty of the Fann Mountains made the trip one of the best ever.
“Speaking of the group, there were 14 of us from the UK, Croatia, Australia, New Zealand, Malta (grew up in Holland), Scotland and the US. We gelled immediately and had a blast together. I hated saying goodbye to all of them….
“We stayed in a yurt camp along the way where I rode a camel and managed to stay on him while dismounting! There was a full moon at the camp, which made it very magical. A local man played his two-string guitar and sang songs that were sung by traders along the old silk roads many many years ago.
“We also stopped in the Kyzylkum Desert to see the petroglyphs that date back to the Stone Age. Fascinating! And we took a nice little dip in the Aydarkul Lake that seemed almost warm compared to the mountain lakes.
“Bukhara, my favorite city, is one of the most ancient cities of Uzbekistan and founded in the 13th century. I loved the narrow streets, open gardens and superb historical and architectural monuments. I did some serious shopping here and was never once heckled by the shopkeepers. I enjoyed bargaining with them. Lots of good laughs!
“A highlight of the trip was when we went to a woman’s mosque. There were women inside enjoying their lunch, and they invited us to join them. We had a wonderful time sharing food and stories.
“We took a train back to Tashkent where we ended the trip. I hated for it to end and will always have wonderful memories of the kind, gentle people of Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. It was one of my BEST TRIPS EVER…and I have traveled a LOT!”