Our short but epic visit to Crete wouldn’t have been complete without a day of shopping, and Rethymnon, another picturesque port on Crete’s north coast, checked off all the boxes. Located between the regions of Chania and Heraklion, Rethymnon is another melange of Byzantine, Venetian and Moorish cultures. Its winding cobblestone streets and alleyways often end in stunning landmarks illustrating the architectural collision of cultures throughout the centuries (to wit, minarets and Roman arches) or courtyard clustered with intimate, joyous tavernas. Hidden among the shelving of the back office of a small bookstore is a decorative cement trough for horses, signifying the preference for preservation over destruction. Clearly shop owners are welcoming – this is a tourist mecca for cruise ships and cross-island bus tours. But most striking was how personable they were, devoting as much time as needed for even a trinket sale. I’ll never forget the 60 minutes we spent inside Katerina Sunrise, a tiny jewelry shop featuring artisans and craftspeople working in silver, gold, stone and enamel, each telling a story of its own and selected by the owner from all over Crete. When we entered her shop, Katerina closed her to other visitors to focus on us, and it was such a thrill to “try on and try out” without hassle. While it nearly impossible to make a decision, I left with an delicately crafted oxidized metal necklace and matching earrings resembling deep-throated flowers from amethyst stones, a set that continues to draw comments whenever I wear them. But Katerina wasn’t done when she made the sale – in hospitable local style, she gave us a present – a pint bottle of Raki, the traditional liquor given as a welcoming gesture to guests. Winding up our half day in Rethymnon, we lingered over a long lunch of fresh ingredients and careful preparation in the garden of Akri Taverna.
Shopping in Historic Seaside Rethymnon, Crete
